Fish as a brunch option isn’t always that comes to mind first, but at Cervo’s, it’s now a key marketing aspect of their new menu for brunch that became a reality on April 1. Located at 43 Canal Street, this establishment was opened in a much more upscale setting than the restaurant’s two business partners, Nick Perkins and Nialls Fallon, earlier offering, Hart’s. Any comparison between Manhattan and Bedford-Stuyvesant, respectively, tends to reinforce that opinion.
Perkins is the chef who whips up Mediterranean-infused offerings along with his kitchen cohort, Aaron Crowder. The pair often let their imagination take over and avoid the expected staples like a bagel and lox. Instead, innovative takes that use sourdough bread as a centerpiece in bringing it all together are their goal. The bread in question is a whole wheat variety known as micca from Saraghina’s Bakery. It’s lightly toasted with two separate concoctions making up the tempting fare.
One has trout that’s been cured in-house in a style known as graviax, which is usually merges salt and sugar with dill. Cervo’s takes that concept and instead uses items like coriander, chiles and Spanish gin and delivers a citrus-based taste. Sweet red peppers certainly will catch the eye of those dining on this item, with the home dill taste enhancing the fresh appeal
The other portion manages to deliver the impactful duo of salad made up of fennel and white beans with sardines with a Spanish heritage. Those sardines are known as Cabo de Penas and make for an exotic touch that beat any canned supermarket option. The bean salad does have some Italian roots attached, with what’s known as purgatorio, coupled with some herbs to give it even more flavor. Those looking to venture into Cervo’s can have this choice for a mere $19.