Since it opened in the trendy Williamsburg area in 2004, Marlow and Sons has generally adhered to changing its menu on a daily basis, while focusing almost exclusively on outstanding taste, regardless of the caloric intake that’s involved. However, Andrew Tarlow’s establishment is forging new territory after the hiring of chef Patch Troffer, whose training ground of the Bay Area has made him more aware of the value of combining taste with good health.
Marlow has been known for its legendary brick chicken, with potato tortilla also a favorite. While Troffer is keeping those money-makers around, he’s also been given a blank canvas by Tarlow to develop foods that might be something as simple as skinned chicken that offers a new level of crispness.
This being New York, the vibe has to be one that exudes a hearty meal. Yet Troffer seeks to find a middle ground between one where the amount of food on a plate doesn’t overwhelm a diner and one where they don’t feel cheated on their portions.
Some of what Marlow and Sons will be offering through Troffer include bottarga toast that’s undergone some deep thought. This is evident by the fact that the restaurant is using a dairy kafir that evolves from sour cream into cultured butter. Performing this task helps eradicate the lactose inside the cream and turning it into lactic acid.
Of course, dairy-based items only scratch the surface of the different nuances in evidence. Broccoli that’s fried and breaded with rice flour and chickpea might not sound completely healthy, yet Troffer merges it with mushroom broth and sauerkraut in place of fatty mayonaise. Chicory salad, butter beans that have been braised also share space on the menu with lamb and bread stew, making this a place that’s looking to break new ground.